Here's my wire cheat sheet:
What do the terms mean?
Gauge: The gauge is the thickness of the wire.
14 gauge: 1.65 mm in diameter -
- for clasps, thick jump rings, chain maille jewellery, neck rings, bangle bracelets, substantial formed links, eye pins for beads with very large holes
- for clasps, thick jump rings, chain maille jewellery, neck rings, bangle bracelets, substantial formed links, eye pins for beads with large holes
18 gauge: 1.0 mm in diam. -
- for more delicate clasps, jump rings, formed links, eye pins, head pins, wire-wrapping, fits through most bead holes, also good for making ear-wires, though 20 gauge is more common. I like 18 gauge myself, but I also use 20 gauge for making earwires.
20 gauge: 0.8 mm in diam. -
- for jump rings, delicate formed links, eye pins, head pins, wire-wrapped links, split-rings, fits through most bead holes. Also good for making earwires. For more about earwires, see Lara's comment below. Thanks Lara!
22 gauge: 0.65 mm in diam. -
- for wire-wrapping, wire-wrapped head-pins, eye-pins, fits through almost all bead holes
24 gauge: 0.5 mm in diam. -
- standard size for wire-wrapped bead links and head pins, wire-wrapping, fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge fits through almost all of these.
26 gauge: 0.4 mm
- for wire crochet, wire-wrapped bead links and head pins, wire-wrapping, fits through all but the smallest bead holes. Semi-precious gemstone beads and pearls often have smaller holes than other beads. This gauge should fit through all of these.
28 gauge: 0.32 mm
- for wire crochet, wire-wrapping, wire-weaving.
Temper: The hardness (or softness) of the wire
Dead-soft:
- refers to wire that has been annealed (made softer by heat) and is very easy to bend with your hands or with tools. I prefer this temper to half-hard because I find it much easier to work with. This temper can be hardened (called work-hardening) by tapping it with a nylon or rawhide hammer, or squeezing it between nylon jaw pliers. It can also be work-hardened by hitting it on a steel block or anvil with a chasing hammer or a regular hammer. This will flatten the wire though (this is called forging - it give clasps, links, and jump rings a really nice, finished look).
Half-hard:
- refers to wire that is harder and more rigid than dead-soft. It can still be worked, but takes more effort and skill. It is more rigid and snaps more easily. Some prefer half-hard to dead-soft because it makes for a stronger link. This temper is too hard for wire-wrapping (except for maybe the 26 or 28 gauge).
Full-hard:
- this wire is quite hard and rigid and does not bend easily. This temper is too hard for jewellery-making.
Wire Shape: refers to the shape of the diameter of the wire
Round: regular wire (end looks like a circle)
Half-round: flat on one side of the wire (end looks like a like a half-moon)
Square: 4 equal flat sides (end looks like a square)
Triangular: 3 equal flat sides (end looks like a triangle)
3 comments:
18 and 20 gauge can also be used for earring wires. Most often the 20 gauge is used. I also make 18 gauge. Many of my customers, as well as myself, prefer the 18 gauge because they are noticeably thicker in appearance and look more substantial. They can be too large for some people’s ear holes; I’ve only run into this problem a couple of times. Most often the 18 gauge fits the earring holes of people who frequently wear earrings.
Thank you. Your guide was so well organized and informative. Now I can go ahead and order some online products!
i want to start making wire jewellery but im puzzled by the whole gauge thing, with the wire, the eye pins, head pins. Do you have to use the same gauge eye pins as the same gauge wire your using? i find it very difficult to get all the bits i want in sterling silver, what other material can i use that wont turn people blue and green after wearing it?
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